Most people who visit the Los Angeles Arboretum in Arcadia (right across the street from Santa Anita racetrack) probably go because of the gardens.
Or perhaps for the resident peacocks.
Or just to have a Grand Day Out at a reasonable price.
Hollywood film and television history fans enjoy seeing the lake and the "cottage" on the property, because so many movies and TV shows were filmed there. Several "Tarzan" movies and the opening sequence of "Fantasy Island" come to mind. (I'll post a list of all the films and shows in the notes at the end of this post.)
When I visit the Arboretum, I enjoy all the sights it has to offer. But I'm there primarily for the Coach Barn. It isn't a large building, but it's packed with history.
Elias Jackson "Lucky" Baldwin (1828-1909) Arcadia Public Library, Public Domain https://commons.wikimedia.org/w/index.php?curid=143296302 |
Elias Jackson Baldwin, founder and first Mayor of the City of Arcadia, was born into an Ohio farming family on April 3, 1828, but spent his formative years growing up in nearby Indiana where a year at Wabash College in Crawfordsville completed his formal education.
At age 25, already a successful businessman, E.J., wife Sara Ann Unruh and daughter Clara set off on a wagon train journey west to the new state of California. Baldwin initially engaged in hotel, livery stable and brick businesses in San Francisco but soon began a carefully orchestrated system of buying and selling mining shares in Nevada’s Comstock Lode.
A particularly fortuitous stock sale earned him the much-disliked nickname ‘Lucky,’ but it was hard work and enterprise that netted Baldwin the $5 million profit he brought into Southern California in 1875. “I came down to look at a mine,” Baldwin would later reminisce, “but when I saw this ranch there was nothing that would make me happy but to own it.”
The Ranch was Santa Anita, one of several old ranchos [totaling 46,000 acres] that entrepreneur Baldwin would acquire in Los Angeles County, but it became his beloved home place, and four of his original historic structures have been carefully restored at today’s Los Angeles County Arboretum.
Baldwin’s second daughter (born to third wife Jennie Dexter in 1876) was named Anita in recognition of the land purchase; a City thoroughfare, a train station, and a racetrack would later sport the name as well.
Santa Anita was both a heralded beauty spot and a productive working ranch with hundreds of acres in citrus alone, a vineyard and winery that produced prize-winning wines and brandies, and livestock that ranged from sheep and cattle to expensive, successful thoroughbred race horses who made turf history at every track in the nation.
Ever the businessman, Baldwin signed right-of-way contracts with local railroad companies in the 1880s and made provision for two local depots to be built, one on Ranch land and the other in the heart of his newly laid out Arcadia town site. Land sales were headquartered at Baldwin’s Oakwood Hotel on First Avenue, and soon a flamboyant scheme to petition for cityhood grabbed headlines.
Despite protests from neighboring cities, Arcadia was incorporated in 1903, and with Lucky Baldwin becoming Mayor Baldwin, not only was gambling legalized, but in 1907 a dream came true with construction of Santa Anita Park, a racetrack in his own back yard (today the site of Santa Anita Golf Course).
Two years later, Baldwin died at his Santa Anita ranch home, but his mark will never be forgotten. “He was Lucky Baldwin, perhaps the outstanding individualist of his generation,” concluded an early biographer. “His was the spirit of the frontier.”
The National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame website adds context:
Baldwin's obituary in the San Francisco Call described him as "the most noted figure of American turf," while the Los Angeles Times referred to him as the "King of the Turf." ...Anita Baldwin was among the group...that brought racing back to California with a new Santa Anita Park, which opened on Christmas Day 1934.
The centerpiece of the display inside the Coach Barn is, fittingly, the coach. Driving a large, closed, four-wheeled coach pulled by four horses was a popular sporting activity of the rich during the 19th and early 20th centuries, and Baldwin was one of many wealthy men who took part.
A sign in the Coach Barn describes the vehicle's specifications and history.
(Who knew?)
Another Examiner horse show society critic faulted Baldwin's harness and the fact that the blinds in the carriage were up when they should have been down. And Baldwin's coachmen, the writer sneered, "looked like figures you throw balls at."
These unnamed critics are gone, however, and Lucky Baldwin's coach is still here for us to appreciate.
Lucky Baldwin's equine interests went far beyond competing in horse shows. A glassed-in display inside the Coach Barn shows us other aspects of Baldwin's empire. Western saddles, including what looks like a child's saddle, are shown without context. I assume they were used on Baldwin's cattle ranch.
The years of wear and a little tarnish, along with the glare of the protective glass, made reading the names of the horses problematic. I enlarged my photos when I got home and made note of as many horse names as I could decipher.
Volante (winner, American Derby, 1885)
You can see a picture of Volante in the UCLA Library Digital Collections:
https://digital.library.ucla.edu/catalog/ark:/21198/z1k6627g
Silver Cloud (winner, American Derby, 1886)
Emperor of Norfolk (winner, American Derby 1888), regarded as "the best California-bred horse until Swaps began his career in the 1950s."
Rey El Santa Anita (winner, American Derby, 1894)
Baldwin's other Thoroughbreds whose shoes are on display in the Coach Barn include:
Cruzados
San Francisco Call, 30 November 1901 |
Laredo
Lady Diamond
Rey El Tovar
California
El Piloto
San Francisco
Winona
Felipe Lugo
Argentina
Olmstead
Falling Leaf
La Puente
Lucky B
Larita
Realista
Savanna
Miss Ford
Los Angeles
Gano
Rutherford
Jennie B.
Grinstead
Grismer
Magdelina
Lizard
Brandy Wine
Glenita
El Salado
Estrellita
Lillita
Diamante
Sinaloa II
Geraldine
Formero
Wonderland
Glenmound
Favor
Frank Ward
Ogelita
One cannot talk about Lucky Baldwin's racing empire without mentioning at least three African-Americans whose stories were never fully told back in that day. The first is jockey Isaac Murphy, who rode Volante, Silver Cloud, and Emperor of Norfolk to their victories in the American Derby in Chicago.
Anaconda, Montana Standard, 6 April 1913. |
The Kentucky Horse Park website notes that many people consider Isaac Murphy to have been the greatest jockey of all time:
Isaac Murphy won with more than a third of his mounts year after year. By his own account, Murphy won 44% of his races. Only 34.5% can be verified in chart books from the era, but it’s likely that some of his races were not covered in the chart books. Either way, Murphy set a standard that no other jockey has met.
He won the Kentucky Derby three times, the Latonia Derby five times, and four of the first five runnings of the American Derby, once the richest 3-year-old race in America.
Not only was Murphy known for his skill on horseback but also for his honesty and loyalty. He once refused to let champion Falsetto lose the 1879 Kenner Stakes, even though gamblers enticed him with bribes.
Among others, Murphy rode Emperor of Norfolk, Kingston, Firenze, and Salvator. Aboard Salvator in the 1890 Suburban, he defeated Snapper Garrison and Tenney in a historic match.
Isaac Murphy also owned and trained horses during his career. He died of pneumonia at age 36 in 1896.
Among the other African-Americans associated with Baldwin's success are his farrier, John Isaac Wesley Fisher (1854-1940), and his son Julian D. Fisher (1896-1976). An enlargement of a photograph of father and son covers most of a wall in the Coach Barn.
______________________________________________
Arcadia Historical Society:
https://arcadiahistoricalsociety.org/historical-markers-guide/arcadia-historical-marker-10/
PBS SoCal's post on Baldwin has more biographical information and photos:
https://www.pbssocal.org/shows/departures/elias-lucky-baldwin-land-baron-of-southern-california
Here is Lucky Baldwin's page on the National Museum of Racing and Hall of Fame website:
https://www.racingmuseum.org/hall-of-fame/pillar/elias-j-lucky-baldwin
Isaac Burns Murphy: https://kyhorsepark.com/explore/isaac-burns-murphy/
J. I. W. Fisher and his son, Julian Fisher:
https://cityofmonrovia.pastperfectonline.com/Photo/58BE0C8B-6B54-4A2F-A905-397343350300
https://cityofmonrovia.pastperfectonline.com/Photo/3A6165B2-5C8E-4613-8ECA-052993546910
Movies and Television Series filmed at the Los Angeles Arboretum:
https://www.arboretum.org/save-baldwin-lake/sediment-study/
The LAist website offers a more unvarnished review of Baldwin's life:
https://laist.com/podcasts/off-ramp/lucky-baldwins-arcadia-a-gambling-hell-and-booze-pleasure-park
Public TV's one and only Huell Howser visited the Arboretum in 2002 for his series "Visiting..." There's some great footage of the interior of the Coach Barn:
https://blogs.chapman.edu/huell-howser-archives/2002/09/27/lucky-baldwin-cottage-visiting-1018/
Rey el Santa Anita's 1924 bay grandson, Rey de Los Angeles, served as a US Army Remount sire. His photo is part of the collection at the W. K. Kellogg Arabian Horse Library on the Cal Poly Pomona campus. CPP sits on the site of the former Kellogg Ranch, which was the Pomona Quartermaster Remount during World War II.